Everything from rare Rolex chronographs to spectacular Lange pocket watches.
Each fall, the watch world gears up for a major auction season as auction houses large and small scour the globe for the best vintage and pre-owned timepieces. This year is no different: from Phillips’ landmark The Geneva Watch Auction XXIV — which features an eye-watering assortment of pre-Daytona Rolex chronographs — to Christie’s Rare Watches to Sotheby’s Important Watches, the market is filled with rare and compelling pieces in a variety of forms from a plethora of important marques. From a school watch based upon a rare stainless steel Patek Philippe to a unique, complicated Lange pocket watch from the turn of the 20th century, these timekeepers are sure to capture your imagination.
Here are just a few of our favorite lots…
Phillips The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV (Nov. 7-8th, Geneva)
Rolex ref. 3525 “Bariletto,” Stainless Steel, Circa 1940 (est. CHF 250,000–500,000)
The first example of an Oyster-cased Rolex chronograph, the ref. 3525 is powered by the hand-wound Valjoux cal. 23 and measures approximately 35mm in diameter. Featuring both tachymeter and telemeter scales within a multi-tone dial, it exemplifies the stylistic conventions of the Wartime period, and could famously be ordered by Allied prisoners-of-war directly from Rolex and delivered to POW camps in Europe. This example is notable for its excellent condition and its dial signed by Proud’s, an Australian retailer.
Rolex ref. 3335, 18k Pink Gold, Circa 1941 (Est. CHF 250,000–500,000)
An oversized watch measuring 37mm, the ref. 3335 numbers among the first triple-register chronographs ever made by Rolex — and, at just a few hundred examples produced in total, one of the rarest. Cased in pink gold, this stunning example retains the sharp lines throughout its angled lugs, flat pushers, concave bezel, and hallmarks. A “pre-Oyster” watch powered by a Valjoux movement, it’s notable for its matching pink dial featuring the signature of Monetti, a retailer founded in Naples in 1904.
Rolex ref. 3830, 18k Yellow Gold, Circa 1941 (Est. in excess of CHF 1,000,000)
Of three square-cased Rolex chronographs known to collectors, the ref. 3830 is quite literally unique: only a single example has come to light, and it carries an estimate in excess of CHF 1,000,000. Measuring a scant 30mm in diameter in 18K yellow gold, it features a stepped case with a recessed crown and square pushers. Much like that of the previous two Rolex chronographs, the champagne dial bears a double-signature, this time featuring Verga, a retailer in Milan. Unfathomably scarce, it’s an exciting example of the Crown’s early history come to light.
Christie’s Rare Watches Including Watches for ELA (Nov. 9th, Geneva)
École d'horlogerie Adapted Patek Philippe ref. 2509 School Watch (Est. 20,000-40,000 CHF)
A stainless steel ref. 2509 — a classic, hand-wound Patek Philippe dress watch — is rare enough. (Only roughly 20 examples are known.) But this modified version is something different entirely, and much more special: a “school watch,” it was completely reworked by watchmaker Jean Pierre Curchod at the École d'horlogerie de Genève in the 1960s. The Patek Philippe cal. 12-400 features his anglage, black polishing, Côtes de Genève, and other finishing, while the dial was manufactured by Stern Frères, as one would expect. You won’t find another like it.
Rolex Platinum Datejust ref. 6604 (Est. CHF 140,000 – CHF 280,000)
Dating to the late 1950s, the ref. 6604 saw the Rolex Datejust evolve into a more elegant form, its cal. 1065 automatic movement allowing for a flatter caseback than earlier ‘Ovettone’ references. This one, however, is a ref. 6604 on steroids: executed in solid platinum, it’s fitted not only with a rare black honeycomb dial, but also a woven platinum Rolex-signed bracelet that may just well have been paired to the watch when it was sold. In extraordinary condition, it’s a rare-as-hen’s-teeth find that’s anticipated to hammer for six figures.
Cartier ‘Twin Strap’ Wristwatch (CHF 140,000 – CHF 280,000)
The craze for all things Cartier continued abated with the auction of this ultra-rare ‘Twin Strap’ wristwatch from the firm’s London workshops. Dating to the 1970s, it consists of a rectangular 18K yellow gold with a large cabochon-set crown and a gorgeous dial — exploded Roman and triangular indices are joined by the ‘Cartier’ and ‘London’ signatures, plus a set of blued steel sword hands. Powered by a Jaeger-LeCoultre hand-wound movement and paired to a brown leather ‘twin strap,’ it’s a symbol of one of the brand’s explosive midcentury creativity.
Sotheby’s Important Watches (Nov. 8-9th, Geneva)
Vacheron Constantin ref. 2405 (Est. 10,000-15,000 CHF)
The 1970s and 1980s were full of envelope-pushing, eccentric designs such as this Vacheron Constantin ref. 2405. (If only more of the top maisons would bring them back!) Measuring 32.5 x 37.8 mm in 18K white gold, its rectangular housing features a wildly cool textured pattern paired to a matching bracelet. Contrasting this is a black onyx dial featuring brilliant-cut diamond-set cardinal indices and a dauphine handset, while powering the watch is the ultra-thin Vacheron Constantin cal. K1120 automatic movement with 36 jewels. Simply a beautiful object.
George Daniels Millennium (Est. 300,000 - 600,000 CHF)
Made for the son of David Roscoe, a director at Rolls Royce Motors, this 18K yellow gold Millennium is the product of George Daniels, the reclusive British watchmaker famed for his invention of the co-axial escapement. Delivered in 2001, its superbly crafted silvered guilloché dial features brushed gold chapter rings, while its automatic gilt brass movement is likewise entirely handmade. Accompanied by numerous personal effects and ephemera, this is a tremendously important find, representing as it does the end of the Millennium production.
A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication Pocket Watch (Est. 500,000 - 1,000,000 CHF)
This stunning pocket watch, representing the pinnacle of Lange’s early 20th-century production, is a pièce unique commissioned by a notable watchmaker and executive. Delivered in 1914, it features a perpetual calendar, a quarter repeater, and Grande and Petite Sonneries. Its six-part enamel dial and beautifully decorated, damascened German silver movement with signature ¾ plate are housed in a 60mm 18k pink gold Louis XV-style hunter case. Accompanied by two extra mainsprings, three extra crystals, and other accessories, it’s an important historical artifact for diehard fans of German watchmaking more broadly, and A. Lange & Söhne more specifically.
