There are very few independents or micro-brands who are able to celebrate a 10th anniversary this year, let alone a 180th anniversary. That might not seem possible, but that’s exactly what Fears have done this year. This historic British brand, originally founded in 1846, was re-ignited 10 years ago by the original founder’s great-great-great grandson. Based out of Bristol in the west of England, this brand have been producing fabulous watches that are high-quality, unique, and quintessentially British. Rooted firmly in their heritage, Fears design their watches with one foot in their archive and the other in the present. The latest result of this bold venture is the Fears Arnos Opera Black
Making its first public appearance on Friday at WatchTime in New York, the Arnos Opera Black is a watch like none-other. It is almost radically different to the most recent iteration in the collection from just a few years ago: bar the shape they are almost unreconcilable. Designed with the timeless glamour and elegance of a black-tie dinner in mind, this is a dress watch with a rather large twist. Let’s get stuck into the details to see why this suave British watch deserves the praise.
To say that this dial is striking is almost an understatement. Starting off with the most obvious aspect, the white on black disc cut into the black onyx surface. Mixing circular with rectangular lines so blatantly is a bold and seldom seen design choice. Before moving onto the actual dial itself I want to draw your attention to the exquisite Fears Pipette hands charged with telling the time and the discrete ‘England’ inscribed in the lower hemisphere. Both of these elements are unmistakably Fears: a persistent commitment to ensuring that even the smallest details are executed to the highest standard. This particular aspect is what draws me to high-end independent watchmakers and it is exciting to see that Fears share the very same philosophy. A second, more subtle point to note here is that it only says England, not made in England. As an Englishman through and through, it brings me great pride to see more and more watches bearing this distinction, but even more pride to see that Fears are not sugar coating the reality. The brand is fiercely committed to transparency, which is refreshing in what can only be described as an esoteric industry.
The next aspect that I particularly appreciate about this watch is the onyx dial and its art deco roman numerals. Over the last few years we have seen stone dials make a major comeback, but I have found a lot of them to be a little too out there for my taste. This, however, is the perfect mid-point between the discretion of a ‘normal’ dial and the wow factor of a stone dial: if you are looking for a dress watch and a stone dial watch, this piece might hit two birds with one stone…The combination of the strong contrast, dramatic art deco style, and bold juxtaposition of geometry give the watch a strong visual presence. That being said, the restraint, measured proportions, and clever use of texture, materials, and colour give it a sleek and subtle feel. It is exactly the watch you want to accompany your evening dress.
Even with rectangular watches, the case itself is rarely one of the main talking points, however, the Arnos case truly deserves its own moment in the spotlight. Starting off with the historical aspect, the Arnos has been drawn straight out of Fears’ very own archive. Dating back to a piece that the brand produced and sold in the golden era of the 1920s and ‘30s, this design is not a mere reinterpretation but a veritable artefact that has been brought back to life. Admittedly, it has been updated with all the latest technological developments in design, manufacturing, and finishing so that you can benefit from the best of both worlds. In terms of wearing experience, the Arnos was truly delightful. The case and sapphire are gently curved to better embrace the wrist and ensure a glove-like fit. At roughly 33 by 22 millimetres wide, the Arnos sits in the sweetspot for rectangular watches, and with its ultra-thin caliber, it squeezes nicely under 8.4mm thick making it the ideal choice to slip beneath your cuff.
The strap options available with the Arnos Opera Black are probably the aspect that most people will overlook on this watch. As I have previously mentioned, this watch was designed with formal or very formal occasions in mind. Normally, this means that you get a very high-end leather strap with all the usual hallmarks of quality and finishing. Indeed, you do get exactly that in the form of a black epsom leather strap but you also get a Grosgrain Silk one. This is a particularly unusual choice that makes perfect sense in the context of this watch. This type of silk is primarily found on bowties and dinner jackets, tying in seamlessly to the Arnos’ formal character.
Powering this Arnos is the SW-1000, one of Sellita’s top of the range ultra-thin calibers that has been given the top grade treatment as well unique touches and components that are exclusive to Fears. Most notably, the rotor, which has been treated with the iconic Fears Blue and their Bristol flowers motif. Whilst it is disappointing that this beautiful movement is hidden behind the steel caseback, I firmly believe that the choice to keep it obscured is the right one. It keeps the watch focused and whole by avoiding the difficult task of elegantly exposing the caliber.
When I first saw this watch a little over six-weeks ago in a hotel courtyard in Geneva, I was instantly convinced by the good looks, the feel, and the story behind this watch. As someone who has spent more than enough evenings in black tie to last me a lifetime, it really appeals to my taste and solves my biggest issue when it comes to evening dress: it is a subtle, elegant, but very special piece that feels a lot more fitting for the occasion than the dress watch that is my trusty companion during my day job. The Fears Arnos Opera Black is the perfect blend of quality, design, and quiet magnificence. This definitely a watch for anyone looking for something a little different to wear on special occasions or one very special occasion.
The reason I say this is the price-tag. At $4,500 USD, the Fears Arnos Opera Black is not a cheap watch. In this price range, you are not far off some major brands and for many of you this will be a dealbreaker. However, I would argue that you are getting a whole lot more than mainstream brands can offer: whether that is in terms of looks, history, or rarity. For this reason, I am resolute in my belief that the Fears Arnos Opera Black is worth your time, attention, and potentially a spot in your watch roll. And to answer the question I started this article with, I do think it is the most elegant dress watch money can buy today.
If you want more information about this watch, you can head on over to the Fears website right here.
