Best Watches from WindUp and WatchTime NYC 2025

For the North American watch community, especially those in the New York area, mid-October is a fabulous time, with both WindUp and WatchTime NYC taking place in the same week. All the usual suspects, and many many more, are present at the shows. Ranging from heavy hitters like Breguet and Moser, to big players like Oris and microbrands like Studio Underdog, there are brands for every enthusiast to come and enjoy. With so many brands present, it is hardly a surprise that there are a ton of big releases. Sadly I have never had the chance to attend in-person, but I have only heard fantastic things about the feel good atmosphere and quality of the shows. If you also missed out on the weekend or just want to relive the action, join me as we discuss the best releases from both shows…

Zenith Defy Zero G 

2025 is Zenith’s big year. They are celebrating 160 years of existence and watchmaking. Are they doing so in style? I would say so. Starting the year off with the triptych of Blue Ceramic pieces and the platinum G.F.J, they have just stepped it up again with the Defy Zero G, possibly the most complicated release in the series. This isn’t a new model, but it definitely feels like it. Zenith have leveraged every tool and expertise they can get their hands on and packed it into this watch. The Defy Zero G has it all: sapphire case? Check. Complex movement? Check. Lapis lazuli dial? Check. Stunning gravity control module? Check. If a watch has just one of these elements, we sing its praises loudly. Combining all of them together is certainly a risk, and of course Zenith have delivered it flawlessly. I really couldn’t think of a better way for Zenith to finish off their big celebration. 

If you’re curious about the details, you can find out more here. This Zenith Defy Zero G retails in excess of $200,000 USD.

Studio Underdog x Fears 02 Series

On paper, Studio Underdog and Fears are unlikely partners at best, yet in practice, their collaborations have been more than successful. The fruit of their first partnership, the Gimlet, was a complete hit. In honour of the boozy theme, and the British brand’s flying visit to NYC for WindUp, they have delivered two new pieces: the Manhattan (a WindUp exclusive) and the Mimosa (available on the 23rd of October). When you’re buying one of these Fears X Studio Underdog pieces, you’re getting a fabulous blend of classical design and serious unseriousness. The cushion case and specs indicate that these are not watches that should be underestimated, especially when you consider the unique elements like the sapphire dial on the Mimosa (it has to be said that I’m seriously considering purchasing one when it releases).

The price tag of approximately $1,300 USD is also very attractive, so attractive you might end up wanting two.

Wren Diver 38 Mad and Wren Diver One Snow Titanium

Yet again, we’re here shamelessly promoting our sister brand’s latest releases, but with good reason (as ever I might add). Just hours before WindUp we launched not one, but two new watches: the Diver 38 Mad and the Diver One Snow in Titanium. These launches are a big step forward for Wren, firstly because they’ve brought back our most popular colourway, the Snow, in a completely new package: titanium. The watch is also the first Diver One model to be equipped with the new micro-adjust clasp from the 38. Secondly, Wren have introduced their first fully lumed, bezel, something not many brands offer. 

If you want to find out more about these fabulous pieces, you can do so here.

Ulysse Nardin Freak S Enamel

In recent years, I, and probably a lot of enthusiasts, have come to see Ulysse Nardin as this super avant-garde and innovative watchmaker. With pieces like the Diver Air and the Freak, it is really hard not to overlook the long history UN have. I feel that this latest release, the Freak S Enamel, is slowly bringing the brand full circle with its heritage. 

We’re seeing a lot more brands using enamel, a highly complicated and prestigious technique that has been used in pocket and wrist watches since the beginning. This piece really manages to incorporate the enamelling into the design, without detracting from the presence of the movement nor the effects of the enamel. The colours they have chosen for this release are extremely cool: a flashy burgundy red and a smooth aqua blue (who knows, maybe the designers at Wren have joined Ulysse Nardin!) 

The new Ulysses Nardin Freak S Enamel retails for 153'000 CHF. You can find out more about this release here.

Angelus X Massena LAB Chronographe Telemetre 

Refined is probably the word I would choose if I was only allowed one to describe the new Angelus x Massena LAB Chronographe Télémètre.  Housed in a compact 37mm yellow gold case, this monopusher chronograph channels the charm of 1940s tool watches with a warmth and elegance that feels timeless. Back then, a tool watch was a watch that served a purpose, not something that has a spec sheet as long as your arm. The black gilt dial is beautifully balanced, featuring a telemeter scale, gold leaf hands, and subtle registers. Inside beats Angelus’s hand-wound Calibre A5000, a column-wheel chronograph that’s as satisfying to use as it is to admire. Limited to just ten pieces, it’s the kind of understated gold chronograph that collectors dream about. It also retails for an undisclosed sum.

Haim ‘Annum’ Annual Calendar 

The Haim Annual Calendar definitely grabbed my attention when I first caught a glimpse of it. Initially I thought it was a Vacheron-Constantin Perpetual Calendar of some description, and was completely blown away when I found out what it really was. Haim, if you aren’t familiar with them, are a boutique brand founded in 2020 and based out of Chicago. They make watches that fuse modern and classic design languages effortlessly. My favourite piece from this collection is definitely the fumé dial piece, that allows you to see into the movement without giving the watch the chaotic feel of a skeletonized dial. There are not many watches that have this level of sophistication at this price point, it is definitely worth your time. 

The Haim Annum retails for $2,149 USD and will be available for purchase on the 7th of November.

Worn & Wound X Christopher Ward C12 Loco ‘Brooklynite’

Christopher Ward have been steadily capitalising on the popularity of their crazy high-horology designs and taking them to new heights. Earlier this year, they released the C12 ‘Loco’ with its free-sprung balance wheel, and in a fitting collaboration with our colleagues at Worn & Wound, they have released the 100 piece limited-edition C12 Loco ‘Brooklynite’. Paying tribute to the iconic Williamsburg Savings Bank Tower, an art-deco icon of Brooklyn’s skyline. On the dial, there are a number of small details that hark back to the architecture-can you spot them? All in all, this is a great piece and definitely one for the architecture buffs out there. 

Of the 100 pieces, 30 were available at WindUp NYC. The other 70 are available here, starting at $4,995 USD.

Ming Titanium Polymesh Bracelet

Whilst this isn’t a watch per se, this is probably one of the most significant releases of this year full stop. Ming, the brand that never ceases to amaze me with their latest release, has done it again (for about the 5th time this year). This time it’s with their cutting-edge and one of a kind titanium-mesh bracelet. A master craftsman in classical sculpture had the ability to capture the fluidity of fabric in the marble. Somehow, Ming have managed to capture that same fluidity and make it tangible. It simply blows my mind that they have been able to replicate the feel and movement of a fabric strap using titanium in this way. Concretely, the 1,693 components of this bracelet work in harmony, with tolerances as small as 70 microns, to achieve this. I find this bracelet incredibly impressive because of the barrier that Ming have crossed, but also because of its pricing: just CHF 1,500. You can spend 2/3 of that money on a bracelet that is nowhere near as innovative or impressive. 

Find out more about this innovative bracelet here.

Konstantin Chaykin East Panda 

Cute. Definitely not a word most people writing about watches often, yet it is exactly the one needed to sum up the new Konstantin Chaykin East Panda. Don’t get me wrong, the adorable and playful look of this watch hides a fearsome horological machine. To paraphrase Lady Macbeth, it is very much the in-house calibre K.18-22 beneath the rose- William Shakespeare is spinning in his grave after hearing that one read out loud… Back to the watch and the serious details. The movement uses Chaykin’s proprietary time display, with the hours and minutes displayed in separate eyes, sometimes a bit unsettling but really cool. However, where the East Panda differs to its forebears is in the case: previously the fun had stopped at the dial. In short, the case now has panda ears. For those of you who don’t quite lean into that bit, they are removable. If I could afford this watch, they would be staying on just to make me smile.

Retailing for approximately $22,500 USD at the time of writing, this is definitely one worth checking out.

Oris Redbar 

Designing a watch for a community, and making it available to the public is always a challenge, and yet The Oris x RedBar Divers Limited Edition has hit that sweet spot between a cool community piece and a piece that everyone else will also want. With a 39 mm stainless steel case, ceramic bezel, and a bold red fumé dial, none other than a nod to RedBar’s signature colour, this is a subtle watch with a strong presence. Beating inside is the Oris 733 automatic: a reliable and slim companion for your everyday. The watch comes with both the rubber strap and steel bracelet: you’re not going to be limited for choice. Limited to just 250 pieces and priced at US$2,950, it’s less about hype and more about shared passion. This one’s for folks who care about story and substance, and also anyone who is a sucker for a red dial.

Find out more about this collaboration here.