CIGA Design has followed up the Blue Planet with the Black Star, a new collaboration with Label Noir. It takes the same foundation as the original but reworks it into something entirely different. The sculpted Earth is gone, replaced by a deep black center surrounded by a printed galaxy. It feels more artistic, but it’s built on the same idea of time shown through motion rather than traditional hands.

When I first came across the CIGA Design Blue Planet in 2021, it immediately stood out. The design was unlike anything I had seen before: a miniature Earth sculpted in three dimensions, rotating as time passed. It wasn’t a watch that cared about tradition or heritage. It told a story every time you looked at it. Then it went on to win the GPHG Challenge Watch Prize, the first time a Chinese brand had ever done that. It was a milestone that made a lot of collectors, myself included, reconsider how we view Chinese watchmaking.

For years, Chinese watches have been written off as cheap, mass-produced, and derivative. That reputation still exists, but the Blue Planet changed the conversation. It proved that original design, thoughtful execution, and a strong concept could come from anywhere. It showed that watchmaking in China didn’t have to follow the European playbook. It could create something entirely its own.

I’ve spent time with both the original Blue Planet and the Blue Planet Gilding. The first captured attention immediately with its domed, detailed Earth at the center of the dial. It wasn’t the kind of watch you wore to check the time. It was something that made you stop and think about what you were looking at. The Gilding took that same idea in a very different direction. Its ceramic case and bracelet gave it a darker, more modern presence, while the gold leaf continents stood out against black oceans. It felt more dramatic and confident without losing what made the original so interesting.

Both versions shared the same foundation but told very different stories. That’s what I’ve come to appreciate about CIGA Design. They don’t stop at a single idea. They keep refining and experimenting until it leads somewhere new. The Blue Planet made people pay attention. The Gilding proved the concept had range. And the Black Star shows how far the design language can go when it’s pushed in a completely different direction.

CIGA Design’s catalog is varied. Some models chase trends, especially the skeletonized ones that borrow from Richard Mille’s style. But then there are pieces like the Blue Planet and the Black Star, where the focus is on originality and concept. Those are the watches that define what the brand does best. Their willingness to take creative risks is what makes them interesting. Every so often, they produce something that genuinely shifts how people see them.

The CIGA Design × Label Noir Black Star comes from a collaboration with the Geneva-based atelier Label Noir. The company is known for its monochromatic custom work with brands like Perrelet, Maurice Lacroix, and Cvstos. Their design approach focuses on contrast and restraint, which pairs well with CIGA’s willingness to experiment. But the Black Star isn’t just a darker version of the Blue Planet. It reimagines the concept entirely.

The most dramatic change is the dial. The globe has been replaced by an 8.5mm concave center coated in a pigment called Super Black that absorbs 99.6 percent of visible light. It doesn’t just look dark. It looks empty. In person, the effect is strange because your eyes expect reflections or texture and find nothing. Surrounding that void is a printed galaxy made up of CMYK gradients, pixelated arcs, and small white stars. The only hand is a luminous polar star that orbits the dial, while the hours and minutes are tracked by glowing rings.

If you’ve spent time with the Blue Planet, the layout will feel familiar. CIGA uses what they call the Asynchronous-Follow system. The hour ring rotates 30 degrees for every full rotation of the minute ring, creating a slow, orbital rhythm. There’s a brief learning curve if you haven’t used it before, but once you adjust, it becomes natural. This isn’t a watch built for quick glances. It’s one that encourages you to slow down and engage with it.

Inside the Black Star is the CD-04-S automatic movement. CIGA lists it as Swiss-made, though information about its origins is limited. I’ve owned both previous versions of the Blue Planet and have never had any reliability issues, so I’m not particularly concerned. The specs are standard: 28,800 vibrations per hour, a 41-hour power reserve, and accuracy rated between +15 and -30 seconds per day. The movement is visible through a display caseback that keeps things simple and functional.

At 46 millimeters across, the case sounds large, but it wears smaller than expected because the lug-to-lug distance matches the diameter. On my 6.75-inch wrist, it fits comfortably. The titanium case keeps the weight low, and the black DLC coating gives it a clean, consistent finish. The watch comes on a black fluororubber strap that’s soft, flexible, and easy to swap thanks to a quick-release system.

At 15.6 millimeters thick, the Black Star won’t disappear under a cuff, but that’s not the point. It’s meant to have presence. In daylight, it’s all about contrast: the deep, light-absorbing center surrounded by subtle texture and color. In the dark, it transforms completely. The polar star and both rings glow brightly with Super-LumiNova while the center remains pitch black. The effect is dramatic and easy to read, even in complete darkness.

The CIGA Design × Label Noir Black Star retails for 1,980 dollars. It isn’t a limited edition and comes in custom packaging made from recycled materials, along with a handwritten note from Label Noir. The price sits a little above the standard Blue Planet models in steel or titanium and roughly in line with the Gilding version. Whether it feels worth it depends on how much the concept connects with you. If you liked the Blue Planet but wanted something darker, more conceptual, and more modern, this is the logical next step.

For me, the Black Star feels like the third chapter in CIGA Design’s story. The Blue Planet proved the brand could create something original that earned global recognition. The Gilding showed they could refine that idea into something more polished. The Black Star proves they can collaborate with a respected Swiss partner and still produce a design that feels entirely their own. It isn’t a daily watch or a practical piece, but it was never meant to be. It exists for creativity, conversation, and curiosity.

After spending time with all three versions, I’ve realized that CIGA Design has done more than almost any other brand to shift the perception of Chinese watchmaking. The Black Star isn’t just another version of a successful design. It’s proof that Chinese creativity in watchmaking is growing stronger and more confident with every release. You can learn more about the CIGA Design Black Star here.