The Oris Star: The Watch That Ended A Cartel (Hands-On Review)
What if I told you that this watch changed Swiss law? You wouldn’t believe me, and that’s because it isn’t quite true. The Swiss watch industry is something of a national pride, and lawmakers in the Alpine nation have always worked hard to protect it. In the 1930s, due to some global economic factors, demand for Swiss watches was challenged, and the government stepped in with the Swiss Watch Statute. This law attempted to protect the industry from collapsing by limiting healthy competition and innovation. In the short term, it was probably the smartest move, but the long-term effects were disastrous until a young lawyer from Oris, Dr. Rolf Portmann, spent the best part of a decade fighting to overturn it in the courts. In 1965, he prevailed, and to celebrate, Oris released this watch in 1966: the Oris Star. To mark the 60th anniversary of the release of this piece, Oris has decided to bring it back in its full glory.
I usually find reissued watches to be a bit hit or miss. Sometimes brands overdo it a little bit, and sometimes they get it just right. The Oris Star falls into the latter category. The recipe is perfect: the dimensions are virtually unchanged, the design is identical, the movement has been fully updated, and there is not an ounce of faux-tina in sight. In my opinion, vintage reissues should come out of the box as they would have 50 years ago: pristine and unaged. Essentially, I want to feel like I am unboxing a new old stock watch. And that is exactly what you are getting here; let’s get stuck into the details.
The dial on the Star hits the mark. If someone asks me to imagine a 1960s dial that had been produced today, this is what I would think of. Obviously, this is exactly what happened. Oris dug around in their archives, pulled out the original layout, and put it into production. In my mind, this is exactly how we should do reissues. The block indices with their faceted edges and baton hands with their discreet lume take you right back to a golden age of watchmaking. The standout element on the dial, in my opinion, is the printed Oris logo in a vintage font. Few brands can bring back an old logo without making it feel gimmicky, but here, the simplicity of the stunt makes it work effortlessly. The tone-matched silver dial makes the watch feel like a cohesive and unified entity, not just an assembly of parts. I have a particular soft spot for monochromatic designs, especially in precious metals, but I never thought that I would develop such an affection for a steel piece.
Speaking of the case, how can you ignore the gentle curves of this tonneau-esque design? The contrast between the polished facets and brushed surfaces gives the Oris Star one of the best finishes found on a watch at this price point. Handling it in the light will reveal to the wearer that this watch is a showcase of Oris’s past and present expertise: this is a brand that, in the last 60 years, has evolved significantly without losing sight of its core values. Practically speaking, the case is a delight both visually, as I have already explained, but also dimensionally. Over the last couple of years, we have seen a resurgence of mid-sized cases, especially in the 36–39mm range. Yet, 35mm feels rather overlooked in my opinion. In terms of wearing experience, this is perfect. Sometimes vintage watches of this size can feel a little flimsy, partly due to their size, but the Oris Star manages to feel solid, comfortable, and authentic: the winning combination. If you have been on the fence about vintage dress watches for the reasons mentioned above, get an Oris Star. I can guarantee you will not be disappointed.
As I mentioned previously, this watch marked an era of design freedom for Oris. As of 1965, they were able to move away from the past and start making proper lever escapements, which have become the norm. So, it will be no surprise to you to find such an escapement in the Oris Cal. 733-1. This automatic movement offers a sturdy 41 hours of power reserve, which is rather evocative of the power reserves of 1960s watches. This really is an authentic wearing experience right down to the smallest of details. Oris has also integrated some neat functions like the instantaneous date and hacking that subtly bring the watch up to speed with its 21st-century competitors.
The strap is one of the most powerful elements of this watch. Is there anything innovative or particularly remarkable about it? Not really. That being said, if Oris had gotten it wrong, the design would have been ruined instantly. It has both the sturdiness of a brand-new strap whilst also having a slightly more supple feel, one that I associate with leather straps from that era. Opting for black is the obvious choice. It frames the watch nicely without drawing attention to itself, all while feeling intentional and not like an afterthought or shortcut.
Watches & Wonders sees the release of many high-end and expensive watches, which somewhat hog the limelight. When we talk about the best in show and our favorite watches, we often overlook the watches that most enthusiasts and collectors can actually afford. But not this year. The Oris Star is by far and away one of the best watches released in this price category during the show, and quite possibly this year. I would even go so far as to say that it will certainly be remembered as one of the best watches of 2026 and beyond. Bringing back a classic is certainly a bold move, but one that Oris has executed with class, taste, and masterful craftsmanship.
The Oris Star retails for $2,300 USD. Find out more information here.
