Introducing the Chopard L.U.C 1860
It is a bold statement to make when launching a watch if you say that it will be a classic in thirty years time. That’s exactly what Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele wanted the watch to be when he initially launched it and I would say mission achieved. If you had not already guessed, but the current Chopard Manufacture is celebrating its 30th birthday this year. To mark the occasion, the brand have released a special edition: the new L.U.C 1860. It is a return to one of Chopard’s most important watches, updated just enough to reflect where the brand is today. Instead of going big with complications or limited-edition theatrics, Chopard has taken a more restrained approach by going back to basics. Time-only, small seconds, no date. What you’re looking at is essentially the foundation of the modern L.U.C collection, refined with three decades of technical progress.
The Basics
Case: 36.5mm, Steel.
Crystal: Sapphire.
Movement: Automatic, Calibre L.U.C 96.40-L.
Water Resistance: 30 Meters.
Strap Options: Anthracite grey calfskin leather strap with Lucent Steel™ pin buckle
Price: Not specified.
Availability: Chopard Retail Network.
The Juice
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele said classic and the dimensions of this watch are just that. At 36.5mm, this sits firmly in classic territory, perhaps on the larger side if we are being strict about vintage dress watches (but we’re not, so I won’t be difficult). The thinness, a hair over 8mm, keeps it contemporary and discrete on the wrist. You could say that this is the sweet spot for a dress watch.
The case is made from steel, which might seem like an unusual choice from Chopard, who are well known for some their precious metal pieces. However, the brand have been pushing their proprietary alloyt across their lineup. Harder, more resistant, and brighter than standard steel, it has been produced with a high recycled content, reflecting the brand’s broader direction. This makes perfect sense given the affinity their designs have with nature.
The dial does a lot of the heavy lifting here and rightfully so. The “Areuse Blue” isn’t just your standard shade of blue. It shifts depending on the light, moving between deeper tones and something brighter, almost metallic, much like the river Areuse on which it is based. The texture comes from an assortment hand-guilloché work. This means that you get a ton of different effects on the dial- you certainly will not get bored of looking at it. The hands and markers are in white gold, which is a detail you don’t necessarily notice at first. They add a level of refinement and sophistication worthy of a classic dress watch.
Beating beneath the dial is the Calibre L.U.C 96.40-L, which is where this watch really puts in the hard work. At 3.3mm thick, it’s an ultra-thin automatic movement with a micro-rotor in 22k gold. While it is not new for Chopard, it’s still one of the most impressive executions of the concept. Using the twin barrel setup, the movement gives you a 65-hour power reserve while keeping it slim. No compromises on performance here. It’s COSC-certified, so it meets chronometer standards, and it includes a stop-seconds function for precise setting. The finishing obviously meets Poinçon de Genève standards, which is just goes to show that Chopard have not done this in half measures. That level of finishing in a steel case isn’t common at all.
Final Thoughts
Whether or not you are a huge fan of Chopard or classic dress watches, you have to admit that this is a watch that really embodies the ‘less is more’ philosophy. Away with the gimmicks and tricks, this is a watch that oozes class and style without being loud or flashy. Many brands take the opportunity to capitalise on anniversaries to text things a notch further, but here Chopard seem to have done it without changing their winning formula. This is a fantastic celebration of their longstanding heritage and manufacture’s history.
Find out more about this watch here.
