Hands-On: Yema Navygraf Heritage SW-200 Review
Nestled away in the mountains of the French Jura, just a stone’s throw away from Switzerland, lies a rather sleepy little town called Morteau. For many of you, this place will probably mean nothing, but there are many enthusiasts and collectors who will know that this is the home of French watchmaking. It is also the home of Yema, the brand we are talking about today. They are often associated with very functional and practical designs, which you could assume means that the watches are soulless and a bit drab. But this is a French watchmaker that we are talking about, so they are enticing and charming. Yema is extremely well known for its flagship model: the Superman. While it is a watch worthy of discussing, we are here to talk about its military cousin, the Navygraf.
Over the years, Yema has supplied the French armed forces with various timepieces, and today they are still partners of the Air Force and Marine Nationale. Yes, you heard that right. The same Marine Nationale that also partners with Tudor. This should tell you one thing: Yema makes deadly serious watches that are on par with those from industry titans. While you can buy special Marine Nationale Navygrafs, this is not one of those watches. As its name might imply, this is a model that harks back to the historical dimension of the watch, but I will cover this later on. Let’s get stuck into the details and see what this ‘70s icon is all about.
At first glance, the Navygraf Heritage looks like a classic no-nonsense diver. All the usual suspects are here: a stainless-steel case, plenty of lume, and 200m of water resistance. Nothing here is trying to shock you. When you spend a little more time with the watch, you begin to notice a couple of small details that make it feel brilliant. The first is the proportions. The case sits at a very comfortable 39mm, which puts it straight into the sweet spot that most modern dive watches overshoot. The way the case is structured, with the mid-case and bezel, is excellent. Some dive watches in the 12–14mm thickness range have the ability to feel really tall and slab-sided, especially when they are sub-40mm in diameter. The Navygraf Heritage could not be further from that. I was genuinely astonished to find out that it was about 3mm thicker than I had estimated. The designers at Yema have managed to conceal the height in an extremely attractive and comfortable manner. Purely from a comfort and wearing experience perspective, I would choose this watch quite comfortably every day of the week.
The bezel is where a good dive watch tends to be made or broken. Yema has reached the optimum balance of slimness and usability. Too large, and it looks ridiculous. Too small, and it is useless. The old-school numerals do not look out of place or clunky, like they can on other heritage-styled divers. Despite having continuous markings the whole way around, it is perfectly legible and actually creates a homogeneous flow between the dial and bezel. For me, this shows that Yema is in no way compromising utility or aesthetics in its designs. Arguably, the most important part of the bezel is the sound, and I can confirm for you that Yema has struck gold.
The dial largely follows the same philosophy as the bezel. Large markers, clear contrasts, and zero unnecessary text. The negative space on the dial allows you to appreciate the simplicity of the overall design. That same negative space draws your eyes straight to the bright yellow handset. Arguably, this is my favorite element of the watch, as it brings a slightly playful feel to the piece, still without compromising any functionality. What I appreciate most is what is not here. No faux-patina lume. No artificially aged accents. No attempt to cosplay a specific year. Yes, the markers are slightly darker than your usual lume, but it stops there. This watch feels more like a NOS piece than anything else. That restraint gives the watch longevity. It feels like something I would still enjoy in ten years, not just right now.
One of the big developments for this piece is the calibre. Inside, Yema has opted for the Sellita SW-200, and honestly, this is the right call. Yes, Yema has its in-house movements, and yes, there are collectors who will always prefer them. But the SW-200 brings with it familiarity, serviceability, and proven reliability. In a more accessible piece, the cost of servicing is something that is often overlooked. More collectors should pay attention to the qualities that matter in a watch like this. Is the SW-200 some sort of compromise compared to Yema’s other calibres? Not necessarily. Accuracy is solid, winding is smooth, and there is a certain peace of mind knowing any competent watchmaker can service it down the line. It is not romantic, but it is practical, and the Navygraf is very much a practical watch.
The stainless-steel bracelet deserves special mention. It is a simple and bomb-proof design. It is well-finished, comfortable, and proportioned correctly for the case. No complaints here. Yema has really been sensible with its choices on this watch. There is nothing worse than buying a practical watch and then realizing that it feels flimsy simply because the bracelet is not up to scratch. You certainly will not have that issue with the Navygraf.
The Yema Navygraf Heritage SW-200 is not trying to reinvent the wheel. It is not pretending to be anything other than what it is. And it certainly is not gimmicky or pretentious. That is exactly its strength. If you are looking for something you can really challenge, it will rise to the occasion. If you want something with heritage and history, it has that too. The formula has stood the test of time since the 1970s, and I really do not see any reason for it to stop being a relevant and solid design. The clasp also comes equipped with a diver’s extension, which makes it great for wearing in the summer. A bit of leeway is always appreciated at that time of year.
Who is this watch for? I would argue that it works for everyone. If you are a collector who already has their heavy hitters, this is a watch that slots into your collection effortlessly and brings a bit of fun and something different. For newer enthusiasts, this is the perfect way to start your collection with something solid, affordable, reliable, and objectively cool.
The Yema Navygraf Heritage retails for $1,090 USD. Find out more about this watch here.
