13 of Our Favorite French Watch Brands and Their Best Watches
Switzerland is definitely the powerhouse country of the watch industry. It’s most well known as the highest quality of watch manufactures in the world. But what if we told you that a lot of the master watchmakers that made Switzerland the juggernaut that it is came across its northern border. The French have long had a rich history in watchmaking with many of the major names across history have come to Switzerland from France. So much of the Swiss heritage is owed to French watchmakers. So we thought it would be important to highlight some of our favorite French watch brands. But first, let’s talk a little bit about the French’s role in watchmaking over the centuries.
How many french Watch brands are there?
The short answer is there aren’t nearly as many as their sister country Switzerland. France however, does have a rich history in the horological world. In this guide we highlight some of the brand’s doing really cool things in France. But first, a bit of information on French Watch Brands.
Why are French Watch brands important?
The French horology industry can be overlooked beneath the shadow of its Swiss neighbor. However, it is just as prestigious and historically important. The inventor of the Tourbillion, Abraham Louis Breguet was a French man. Cartier, one of the world’s 10 largest manufacturers of luxury watches and jewelry, also originated in France. While Breguet and Cartier are now considered Swiss watch brands, Le Locle and La Chaux de Fonds are the cradle of the Swiss industry. And just over the border in the Morteau and Besançon regions is the cradle of the French watch industry. The close proximities of these regions of France and Switzerland create an extra-ordinary zone for a technical and material exchange that drives the horological craft.
How long have the french been making watches?
Many would consider many watchmakers in the Western region of Paris some of the first watchmakers in the world. While there is some back and forth, the facts show that during the 1685 Edict of Nantes by King Louis XIV, a large number of Frenchmen left the region due to religious persecution and headed across the borer into Switzerland. Those watchmakers have formed Switzerland into the watchmaking juggernaut that it is today. During the 18th Century, sales of luxury goods and services were paused and that hurt the remaining watchmakers in France, however, today, there are a number of great brand’s making innovations in the watch industry.
What are the best French brands?
A myriad French brands have risen, fallen, and risen again from this incredible flow, bringing new ideas, reviving old practices, and maintaining tradition. Let’s get straight into and see what the best French Watch brands have to offer.
Yema
Founded in 1948, Yema have recently had a huge resurgence. Fiercely independent, they have been developing their own automatic calibres for several years now, with each generation massively outperforming the last: the most recent release included a micro-rotor movement and a tourbillion-powered tide gauge which are both sublime. Yema are the brand of choice for the sailors, submariners, and airmen of the French Armed forces due to their durability and reliability. You can find many special editions in their range paying tribute to these exceptional branches of the military. Yema have also equipped motorsport stars such as Mario Andretti and are renowned for their sailing regatta chronographs too. The brand are one of France’s most prolific watch producers and it’s great to see their latest innovations capture as many hearts and minds as they have previously.
urban traveller
Price: $890; Case: Stainless Steel, 39 mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Yema Urban Traveller is a fantastic example of an affordable integrated-bracelet sports watch: think of it as the (better) French alternative to the PRX. The octagonal case and bracelet are incredibly well finished, which is rare at this price point. The textured dial, which comes in several different colours, is a major selling point for the Urban Traveller. The watch is powered by Yema’s high-quality in-house calibre, one of the small brand’s biggest achievements. This fantastic package retails for $890 USD.
Superman 500 DATO
Price: $1,149; Case: Stainless Steel, 39mm; Water Resistance: 500m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire.
The Superman is one of Yema’s classic and most famous designs. This diver’s watch is super capable: it boasts a huge 500m of water resistance despite the 11mm thick case. The bezel locking mechanism is super robust- you can see why the French Navy commissioned Yema to provide their submarine forces with their watches. The Superman comes in variety of colours, case materials, sizes, and even a Destro variant. The Superman retails widely for $1,149 USD.
Baltic
Baltic founder, Etienne Malec, wanted to pay tribute to his father- a true watch enthusiast. Named after the sea on the polish north coast, where the Malec family originated, Baltic aims to produce timeless designs that can be enjoyed and passed down through generations: true enthusiasts watches. The brand are also working to make this passion more accessible and break down the cost barriers by selling directly to the consumer. This enables them to offer a much better-quality product for a far more affordable price tag. Baltic’s ethos is remarkable and their retro-inspired designs are absolutely on point, let’s have a look at what they do best…
Aquascaphe Classic- Blue Gilt
Price: Approx. $620; Case: Stainless Steel, 39mm; Water Resistance: 200m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Baltic Aquascaphe is a great modern diver in a retro-package that’s accessible to all enthusiasts. The faux-tina elements on the dial really make it feel like a 1950s piece. However, it is not just a pretty face, the watch is extremely utilitarian: the rubber strap and stainless-steel case make it really durable. It boasts a robust 200m of water resistance whilst maintaining the slim and elegant feel. It retails online or in the Baltic stores for approximately $620 USD.
MR-01
Price: Approx. $590; Case: Stainless Steel, 36mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
A micro-rotor is one of the most attractive looking automatic calibres available and they usually come with a hefty price tag. Thankfully Baltic are here to bring us a handsome and affordable looking dress watch with such a good-looking movement, which is visible through the sapphire caseback. The watch embodies smaller classic dimensions, meaning that it fits most wrists and will slide under any cuff. The dial elegantly finishes the whole package off, making it punch way above its weight class. It retails for approximately $590 USD.
Hegid
Hegid is absolutely unique in the watchmaking industry. Their EVOL system is revolutionary. It enables collectors to get that ‘one watch’ collection without compromising on looks and functionality. The watches are composed of two modules: the time-keeping module which houses the movement, and the second, the ‘carrure, the case module that gives each combination its unique aesthetic and functionality. Paired with a great selection of straps, you have a plethora of unique combinations. Whilst this might sound complicated, the reality is incredibly intuitive and simple without compromising on a sturdy and secure wearing experience. You can have a whole new look on your wrist in just a matter of seconds. We can’t wait to see what the next evolutions of Hegid’s technology look like.
Vision Officielle
Price: Approx. $3,000; Case: Stainless Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Hegid Vision Officielle is one of the brand’s inaugural designs. This watch is an everyday tool and companion for high-performance individuals such as scientists, engineers, and businessmen. And it would certainly look at home in the lab just as much as it does in the boardroom. It takes classic design cues, such as the sector dial, and revitalizes them with sharp and crisp features. Using Hegid’s proprietary system, the Vision official can be given a whole new look in just a few seconds, without compromising its core functions. It retails for around $3,000 USD.
Mirage Soleil Black
Price: Approx. $3,400; Case: Stainless Steel, 39.6mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Mirage Soleil Black works in much the same way as the Vision Officielle, interchangeable ‘carrures’ that give the watch a whole new face in just a few seconds. The Mirage itself has been inspired by one of the most iconic (and in my opinion most elegant) sports cars ever designed: the Lamborghini Miura. This watch was designed with speed, luxury, and freedom in mind as it tried to emulate the spirit of the Miura. And the black sunburst dial does just that with its ridged texture that reflects the light unevenly. The Mirage Soleil Black retails for around $3,400 USD.
Awake Concept
Awake Concept are a watch brand for the future. Their design language is undeniably futuristic and space-era. The whole design process is focused around sustainability and durability: their material of choice is recycled aero-space titanium and their make their rubber-like straps out of ricin (a world first in the move away from petrol-chemicals). Awake Concept are also fascinated with meteorite dials, which they have incorporated into several of their watches, offering one of the most accessible ones on the market. Whilst they are incredibly avant-garde, they are still rooted in the French watch-making tradition and produce all their time-pieces on French soil.
Time Travellers- Purple
Price: Approx. $1,500; Case: Titanium, 40mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Awake Concept Time-Travellers Purple is one of the coolest looking watches available on the market. Starting with the case, which is made from recycled grade 2 aero-space titanium, is fantastic shade of purple. The dial is cut from a meteorite, meaning that each one of the 500 pieces is completely unique. The sapphire caseback displays the customized rotor that is inscribed with the brand’s motto: ‘Dare Mighty Things’. This limited run of watches retails for approximately $1500 USD, but you’ll have to be quick because there aren’t many left.
Summetria- Blue
Price: Approx. $1,100; Case: Titanium, 40mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
Also crafted from recycled titanium, the Summetria is a different breed of watch. At a first glance, it may seem extremely similar to the other designs from Awake Concept, but as usual the devil is in the details. The dial has been painstakingly crafted using traditional techniques to create the gorgeous guilloché pattern that is highly revered by enthusiasts and collectors. The dial comes in 4 different colours, but the blue one is by far our favourite. The more refined feel of the Summetria is refreshing. It retails for approximately $1,100 USD.
L. Leroy
In over 220 years of existence, L.Leroy has created some of the finest watches that French Haute-Horlogerie has ever seen. The brand has been handed down from generation to generation, a tradition that extends as far back as the French Monarchy. L.Leroy started off with Basile Leroy, the King’s watchmaker. This is in fact the origin of the family’s name, Leroy, which translates to ‘The King’, signaling that they were suppliers of the royal court. Since then they have been mixing horology with jewelry to create some of the most stunning classical time-pieces.
Osmior Les Grandes Heures Joaillerie
Price: $426,488 + Tax; Case: White Gold, 41mm; Water Resistance: 10m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Osmior Les Grandes Heures Joaillerie is as grand and exuberant as its name would suggest. The watch itself is quite standard for high-horology: it is regulated by a flying tourbillion and displays the time with two dissociated hands on different dials. The most impressive feature is the 18k white gold case that is covered in 425 individual diamonds, over 9.5 carats worth, giving it a chandelier-like look which is just mesmerizing. This feat of jewelry and horology is reported to retail for well over $425,000 USD.
Marine Deck LL201
Price: Upon Request; Case: Rose Gold, 43mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Marine Deck LL201/1 is a sea-going high-horology watch. Probably more at home on a yacht, this watch is incredibly capable and luxurious: a rare combination. This watch has a 100m of water resistance. It is also a certified chronometer with a large seconds dial and power-reserve indicator that balance the dial. The white guilloché dial is very understated and elegant, making it at home with a tux just as much as it is at the marina. The watch is available for an undisclosed sum.
Depancel
Depancel is an inherently French watch-brand. Founded by Clement Meynier, an engineer fascinated with cars and watches, with the goal to combine the two with distinctly French style and panache. The name comes from a contraction of 3 historic automobile manufacturers (Delage, Panhard, and Facel Vega) and pays tribute to the spirit of their legendary vehicles. Every desings attempts to emulate this vintage racing spirit, whilst mixing it up with some extremely modern and avant-garde elements. The French racing spirit is completely inescapable and we love that.
Allure Chronograph Automatic
Price: $2,400 USD; Case: Stainless Steel, 43mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
Depancel has really upped its game recently, introducing a slew of Swiss made automatic pieces. And one of our favorites is the new Allure Chronograph. With its reverse panda dial configuration and racing inspiration, this piece is a great alternative for those looking for something a little more affordable than a Rolex Daytona, Zenith El Primero or TAG Heuer Carrera. But this is not just a Daytona retread. The little pop of green in both the subdials and the chronograph seconds hand, and the guilloche-pattern central dial, gives the watch its own identity. It retails for $2,400 USD.
Pista GT
Price: $895; Case: Stainless Steel, 42mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Pista-GT Full Black is one of the best skeletonized watches available at this price point on the market. The piece feels very dynamic because of the sharp contrast between the red accents and black movement. The full black movement really highlights the components, which enable the power-reserve indicator has been seamlessly incorporated into the skeletonized dial. The bezel has been designed to emulate the rubbery aspect of racing tires, which really reinforces its sporting pedigree. If the unique design and dynamic feel have caught your eye, the Pista GT retails for $895 USD.
Beaubleu
Beaubleu are a brand governed by a wonderful aesthetic and ethos, that revolves around the smallest of details, the big picture that they create, and the holistic relationship between a watch and its wearer. The circular hands and perfectly round cases that are emblematic of Beaubleu, represent the circularity of life and the completeness of their product. This is shown by the brand’s particular attention to sustainability and to the community it has built. Let’s have a look at the fantastic designs they have to offer…
Vitruve GMT Bleu
Price: Approx. $880; Case: Stainless Steel, 39mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
Beaubleu’s limited edition Vitruve GMT Bleu is an absolute stunner of a watch. The brand’s unique style is instantly recognizable with its circular hands. However, this piece’s special feature is definitely is the double hidden crowns that give the case a perfect round shape. They activate the dual time function on the inner rotating bezel. The watch also comes in a deep green colourway that is just as classy as the blue. This modern dress watch retails for approximately $880 USD.
Ecce Vesperal
Price: Approx. $880; Case: Stainless Steel, 39mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Ecce Vesperal was designed with brutal minimalism in mind. The watch appears to be built from a single steel block, with every component flowing into the next seamlessly. The subtle blue ring breaks up the brushed dial creating some discreet visual effects that change with the lighting. This watch’s beauty comes from the assembly of numerous textures and finishes that Beaubleu have incorporated into the design to keep it as minimal as possible. It can be purchased for approximately $880 USD.
Serica
Founded in 2019, Serica is a return to the golden age of great timekeeping instruments. Their designs all have a wonderful retro feel to them, without compromising on technical performance and robustness. Their mission is simple: produce high-performance watches that will outlast their owners. The brand’s advertising is reminiscent of Rolex’s campaigns in the 1950s as they support numerous demanding expeditions and achievements, such as Nicholas Diaz Bayona’s Denali successful attempt. Serica is a producer of proper GADA watches, and you should check our favourite ones below…
Travel Chronometer 8315-02 Desert Red
Price: Approx. $2000; Case: Stainless Steel, 39mm; Water Resistance: 200m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Travel Chronometer 8315-02 from Serica is one of the best vintage-inspired GMT watches available. From a visual point of view, the faux-tine and dusty tones make the feel aged as it comes straight out of the box, especially with the aged leather strap. Mechanically, the watch couldn’t be more modern: its COSC Chronometer certification is very impressive and is rare for this price. Designed to be extremely robust and withstand every adventure, the watch is equipped with 200m of water resistance. The watch can be purchased for approximately $2000 USD.
Collection 5303-02 Chronometer
Price: Approx. $1700; Case: Stainless Steel, 39mm; Water Resistance: 300m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
Built very similarly to its GMT cousin, the 5303-02 could not be more different aesthetically. This watch is incredibly sharp and modern. The 300m of water resistance is more than most dive-watches at this price point, and the COSC certification is also a rarity. The graduated dive bezel is definitely the star of the show, as it enable both dive timing and the tracking of a second time zone. The whole package is finished off by a sturdy steel mesh bracelet. It retails for approximately $1700 USD.
Pequignet
Founded in 1973 by Emile Péquignet, a self-taught watch-maker, Péquignet has been producing its own interpretation of haute-horlogerie since then. A stickler for innovation within artisanal practices, Péquignet’s commitment to tradition was recognized when the brand was classed as a brand of significant French cultural importance by ther government. The brand’s in-house calibres are sublime and are worthy of their gorgeous and discreet housings- a real stalwart of passion and quiet-luxury.
Concorde Watch
Price: Approx. $4,400; Case: Stainless Steel, 36mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Pequignet Concorde is one of the most elegant and understated integrated bracelet watches. The design is unique to Pequignet and bears almost no resemblance to anything on the market. Inspired by the design of the Place Concorde in Paris, the case’s square shape is incredibly soft and well proportioned. The dial comes in a variety of elegant tones, that contrast well with the highly finished case. The whole watch is powered by Pequignet’s own calibre, the Initial. This fantastic independent piece retails for around $4,400 USD.
Royale Origine Watch
Price: Approx. $8,800; Case: Stainless Steel, 42mm; Water Resistance: 50m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Royale Origine Watch is a classic example of elegant high horology. The dial is strictly traditional, with roman numerals, a blue hand-set, and a bright white waffle dial. It is incredibly well rounded, sporting a sub-seconds dial, a power-reserve indicator, a moon-phase, and a digital date and day display. The movement is superbly finished and is exhibited by a sapphire caseback. This is the perfect example of discreet high-horology. It retails for around $8,800 USD.
Herbelin
Born in 1947, Herbelin started off as many brands do these days: in the founder’s garage (in this case it was the founders parents’ attic). Michael Herbelin’s designs were so popular that in 1965 he decided to start his own company and produce watches on a much larger scale. Even during the quartz crisis, Herbelin continued to stick to tradition, a gamble that has more than paid off. Still controlled by the family, Herbelin continues to produce elegant and functional pieces that are loved by enthusiasts and collectors who are looking for a watch with pedigree and history.
Cap Camarat GMT
Price: Approx. $1700; Case: Stainless Steel, 40,5mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Cap Camarat GMT from Herbelin is a versatile integrated bracelet sports watch. The case and bracelet are extremely bold, giving off a rugged marine feel. The watch boasts a GMT function as well as a world-time inner bezel that is operated by the second crown. The watch’s slimmer dimensions make it extremely popular with travelers and businessmen who appreciate its 1970s sports watch feel. The Cap Camarat GMT retails for approximately $1700 USD.
Inspiration Automatic
Price: Approx. $880; Case: Stainless Steel, 40mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
Herbelin’s Inspiration Automatic is a simple but very effective dress watch. The design is traditional if anything. The design is inspired by the Herbelin’s original ‘IMPEC’ collection from 1947. Well finished, the dial is very classy and discreet- perfect for wearing at this office or for a formal occasion. The crown emulates the iconic Cartier sapphire, giving this watch a feel of superior quality. The sharp hands and indices give a slightly more modern feel to it, meaning that it can be dressed up or down too. It retails for around $880 USD.
Montres LIP
Founded in 1867 by Ernest Lipmann, an Alsatian watchmaker, Montres LIP has a rich history of watchmaking. A revolutionary force in the French industry, LIP pioneered advanced manufacturing techniques which allowed them to produce over 300,000 pieces a year at their peak in the 1950s. LIP have equipped some extremely famous personalities throughout its long history, such as Winston Churchill and French aviator, Jean Mermoz. The quartz crisis proved to be a tricky period for the brand, however it made it through and built back up quickly. It has since found a similar popularity among enthusiasts because their timeless designs are so iconic.
Grande Ski Nautic 41mm
Price: Approx. $550; Case: Stainless Steel, 41mm; Water Resistance: 200m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Grande Ski Nautic 41mm from Montres LIP is an affordable divers watch that punches well above its weight class. The vintage compressor style has brought up to date with more a polished and sharper design. There have been no compromises on the quality of the piece as it boasts a strong 200m of water resistance and a sapphire caseback- almost unseen for this price. It also comes on a Tropic rubber strap adding to that vintage feel. It retails for around $550 USD.
Churchill T26 Auto
Price: Approx. $550; Case: Stainless Steel, 26mm; Water Resistance: 30m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Churchill T26 Auto is a homage to the 1930s art deco design. Named after Sir Winston Churchill after he was gifted a solid gold model in the 1948. The T26 is the latest model in the collection and is the only mechanical and automatic one in the collection. This piece really encapsulates the classic style that was first produced in the original workshops in Besançon. The T26 retails for approximately $550 USD.
Dodane
Maison Dodane have been producing time-pieces for military and civilian use since 1857. They became extremely popular with aviators in the 1920s and also produced vital instruments such as altimeters and bombsights. Posst-WW2, Maison Dodane became an official supplier of NATO and the French Department of Defence, positions it held for the rest of thr 20th century. One of their flagship innovations was a watch that enabled delayed parachute openings to be undertaken at night. They also supplied the essential timing devices for ejector seats, whilst also equipping civilian pilots from Air France. Dodane is pillar of French aeronautical and military time-keeping and its current designs reflect that status.
Type 23 Flyback Chronograph
Price: Approx. $4,000; Case: Stainless Steel, 42.5mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Dodane Type 23 Flyback Chronograph is a vintage inspired pilot’s chronograph for the 21st century. The piece is purely utilitarian. The flyback mechanism is essential for timing during aeronautical navigation. The bi-directionnal bezel enables the wearer to set markers throughout the flight and the telemetric scale is indispensable for making calculations on the fly. The watch is housed in a robust case that can withstand any challenge on land, in the air, and in the water. It retails for approximately $4,000 USD.
Type 21
Price: Approx. $4,400; Case: Stainless Steel, 41.5mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
The Type 21 Chronograph is not too dissimilar to the Type 23. Also sporting a classic flyback chronograph mechanism, the watch is a still an aviation specific model. It has 3 subdials, allowing it to track hours, minutes, and seconds. The date window is super-discreet, nestled at the 4 o’clock position. The polished bi-directional bezel and syringe handset really complete the vintage feel, which is Dodane’s specialty. Specially created for the French Air Force in 2010, it was supplied to 750 airmen. The Type 21 Chronograph retails for around $4,400 USD.
Atelier Jalaper
Atelier Japaler is a relative newcomer to the watchmaking scene. Starting in 2019, the brand was founded by Louis Jalaber of France and Simon Szleper of Belgium. So you might consider the brand French, or Belgian, or even Swiss (the watches are Swiss made). The “Frelgian” founders took a lot of influence from British cars and racing cars in general, even incorporating pieces of the car into the dials of their watches. Currently, the brand features two collections, one modeled after the Lamborghini Miura and the second being modeled after Aston Martin. The brand’s penchant for creating designs after motorcars stripped right out of the 1960’s and 70’s is quite a feat. Especially when discussing modern designs coming with French heritage, which, as this list has conveyed, is often quite traditional. Atelier Jalaper is relatively young, and the designs feel really fresh. It’ll be interesting to see what Atelier Jalaper comes up with in their quite obviously bright future.
Collection Miura
Price: Approx. $1950 USD; Case: Stainless Steel, 39.5mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
Firmly rooted in motorsports, the Lamborghini Miura was one of the worlds first supercars. It's unique shape and textures have codified the car into vintage enthusiasts minds for over 50 years now. Atelier Jalaper has crafted a watch set to evoque the essence of the supercar and further, add a piece of the Miura to the watch itself. The dial plate is carved from a piece of the Lamborghini Miura, therefore giving the wearer a glimpse into the patinaed textures and colors of the car itself. Practically, what results is a uniquely textured dial that harkens back to the supercars days of old, with a dial layout emulating the dashboard of the Miura. Further, the leather strap is ripped right out the leather seats from the 60's, giving further not to the car. You can pick up an Atelier Jalaper AJ-P400V for a modest $1,950 USD.
DB5
Price: Approx. $1950 USD; Case: Stainless Steel, 39.5mm; Water Resistance: 100m; Movement: Automatic; Crystal: Sapphire
Atelier Jalaper's inaugural release was a simple, albeit unique watch that features both the time, and the day and date. Ah-la Rolex Day-Date style, the DB5 channels both a date ring and a day of the week at 12 o'clock - Something that you don't often see with microbrands in this price-point. Additionaly, similar to the Miura, the brand utilizes a piece of an Aston Martin to make the dial place. This unique patinaed dial is the central design aesthetic to the watch itself. Further, the Guilloche at 12 and 6 o'clock channels the grill of the DB5 from the 60's. It's actually a feature that we love on the watch. A lot of times these features can be kitchy, but with Atelier Jalaper, it feels like a subtle nod to the car - And we love it.