HANDS ON: Baltic HMS 003 Review
The demand for neo-vintage and vintage-inspired watches is through the roof, and brands of all sizes and reputations are racing to bring out their take on this popular style. Baltic, however, has been on this bandwagon since the start. Founded in 2016, by Frenchman Etienne Malec, as a continuation of his father’s legacy as a watch collector and enthusiast. Baltic, whose name refers to the founder’s Polish origins, has a clear goal: to produce watches that can be passed down for generations and retain timeless charm. To facilitate this, they have done away with middlemen and sell directly to the consumers, meaning that their pieces are extremely accessible. This is clearly a brand who are focused on sharing their passion and enthusiasm for horology with everyone.
The HMS 003 is the third generation of Baltic’s three hand automatic watch. It was not designed as replacement for the second-generation model, but instead as a purer and more traditional iteration that would stand alongside. The collection as a whole is quite formal-looking but will never appear out of place if you dress them down. Without further ado, let’s get into the details…
At 36.5mm width, the case wears perfectly. The lug-to-lug of 46mm is a little bit larger than what I’m used to, but the 10mm thickness meant that it fits just right. The high-domed hesalite crystal does add a further 3mm to the thickness, but it goes completely unnoticed. The hesalite is an authentic detail, that adds to the vintage feel it gives off. It absolutely does not feel like a thick watch, despite what the measurements may indicate. The brushed steel finish creates some contrast with the highly polished bezel of the ‘step case’. Light dances across it with ease, and the discreet flashes of silver really catch people’s attention. I have quite thin wrists, and rarely wear anything over 40mm, so this medium sized case was perfect.
The dial is the piece de résistance of the whole watch. There are so many details that come together to cement the neo-vintage charm that it exudes. The highly polished hand and indices continue to add to the shine coming off the bezel, and somehow always manage to be giving off a completely unique reflection. The combination of numeral and indices unclutters the dial and gives you something more to look at. The finish itself, as well as the fantastic salmon hue, knocks it out of the park. The contrast between the polished outer ring and the grainy inner ring gives it depth and texture, something that in my opinion vintage inspired watches are often missing.
The mechanical heart of this watch is the sturdy Miyota 8315 movement. It boasts a 60-hour power reserve, a fantastic asset and an unusual find on a watch in this price range. The 21,600vph give the seconds hand a steady glide. Often unseen, and frequently concealed behind steel casebacks, it is a surprisingly nicely finished movement, that performs consistently.
The HMS 003 comes with a multitude of strap options, and I was lucky enough to try a few. It comes, as standard, on a leather strap, in the shade of your choosing. If you’re willing to shell out a little bit more, you can also get it on either a flat link bracelet, or a beads rice style bracelet, both of which really add to the neo-vintage feel. And if you want to switch it up a bit with a NATO strap, the case has a 20mm lug width, so you’ve got plenty of options (I went for a leather one and it looked fantastic).
As a person who mostly wears very robust and purpose-driven watches, it’s been a fantastic experience wearing the HMS 003. At first, the lack of functions such as lume or a timing bezel frustrated me a bit, but I’ve really come to appreciate the charm of the HMS 003. Having a fantastic-looking watch that easily slips under my cuffs, sitting perfectly on my wrist, and that doesn’t look out of place with any outfit or in any situation (because let’s face it, I’m a student not a deep-sea diver) is just fantastic. It has really ticked all my boxes for a dressy and neo-vintage watch.
When all is said and done, the Baltic HMS 003 is a really solid and affordable watch that we can expect to be a roaring success, and it will hopefully become a staple for collectors searching for something with that vintage authenticity. The attention to detail and passion that have gone into this watch really makes something special, and there is very little they could do better, especially in this price range.
So, how much is the Balctic HMS 003?
The Baltic HMS 003 retails for $385 USD.