Patek Philippe Marks 50 Years of the Patek Philippe Nautilus at Watches & Wonders 2026
And there are also plenty of cool Calatravas, Golden Ellipse(s), and more.
In 1976, the Swiss watch industry was navigating one of the most uncertain periods in its history. Quartz technology was reshaping the market, and many traditional maisons were doubling down on classical designs in precious metals. Then Patek Philippe did something unexpected: it introduced a luxury sports watch in stainless steel.
That watch was the Nautilus.
Designed by the legendary Gerald Genta, the Nautilus followed the disruptive formula he had pioneered earlier in the decade — pairing bold, industrial-inspired design with high-end watchmaking. Its rounded octagonal bezel and distinctive “ears” were inspired by the portholes of transatlantic ocean liners, while its integrated bracelet and horizontally embossed dial gave it a look unlike anything else in the Genevan firm’s catalog.
The original reference 3700/1A — nicknamed the “Jumbo” — measured a then-enormous 40mm and featured a minimalist display of hours, minutes, and date. At a time when luxury watches were expected to be slim gold dress pieces, the idea of a large steel sports watch carrying the price tag of a precious-metal timepiece was almost scandalous.
But what once seemed radical would eventually become a blueprint. Over the following decades the Nautilus evolved into one of the most recognizable and desirable watches in the world, expanding into complications ranging from chronographs to travel-time displays while retaining its instantly identifiable design language.
Now, half a century after the debut of the ref. 3700, Patek Philippe is celebrating the Nautilus’ 50th anniversary with a series of limited-edition releases. Rather than radically reinventing the watch, the brand has opted for something closer to a return to first principles: thin cases, restrained displays, and a renewed emphasis on the elegant simplicity that defined the original model.
Nautilus 50th Anniversary Editions
To mark half a century of the Nautilus, Patek Philippe has introduced three limited-edition references that revisit the model’s defining design language while emphasizing slimness and restraint — qualities that trace directly back to the original 1976 Nautilus. (Oh, and one desk clock — more on that in a moment…)
All three anniversary models remain faithful to the signature elements conceived by Gerald Genta: the rounded octagonal bezel inspired by a ship’s porthole, horizontally embossed dials, and integrated bracelets that flow seamlessly from the case. Each version also leans into a particularly elegant expression of the Nautilus formula, powered by the ultra-thin automatic Caliber 240 with its signature micro-rotor architecture.
Nautilus Ref. 5810/1G-001
Price: 75,000 CHF
Diameter: 41mm
Movement: Patek Philippe cal. 240 automatic
Dial: Horizontally embossed sunburst blue dial
Water Resistance: 30m
Crystal: Sapphire
Leading the trio is the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5810/1G-001, a 41mm white-gold interpretation that captures the spirit of the original “Jumbo” while adopting an unusually restrained two-hand display showing only hours and minutes. The case remains faithful to the Nautilus’ original two-part construction, and at just 6.9mm thick it achieves a remarkably sleek profile that emphasizes both comfort and the purity of the design.
With the dial stripped back to essentials, the watch’s signature elements take center stage: the rounded octagonal bezel, the horizontally embossed blue dial with sunburst finish, and the interplay of polished and satin-brushed surfaces across the case and bracelet. Applied baton-style hour markers and rounded baton hands in white gold — both filled with luminescent coating — reinforce the model’s clean, legible aesthetic. Power comes from the ultra-thin caliber 240, whose 22K gold micro-rotor is engraved “50 1976–2026” and visible through the sapphire caseback. Limited to 2,000 pieces, the watch is fitted to an integrated white-gold bracelet with a patented fold-over clasp and lockable adjustment system.
Nautilus Ref. 5610/1P-001
Price: 90,000 CHF
Diameter: 38mm
Movement: Patek Philippe cal. 240 automatic
Dial: Horizontally embossed sunburst blue dial
Water Resistance: 30m
Crystal: Sapphire
Next is the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5610/1P-001, a slightly smaller interpretation that brings the Nautilus back to a 38mm “Medium” case size — a nod to the ref. 3800 introduced in the 1980s for those who preferred a more compact take on the Nautilus. Like the ref. 5810/1G-001, it takes a purist approach with a two-hand display showing only hours and minutes, allowing the familiar blue sunburst dial with horizontal embossing to take center stage. The platinum case measures just 6.9mm thick, housing the caliber 240 with its 22k gold micro-rotor engraved “50 1976–2026.”
True to Patek Philippe tradition, the platinum case also features a discreet diamond set into the hinge at nine o’clock, while the integrated platinum bracelet — with alternating satin-brushed and polished finishes — secures the watch to the wrist via the brand’s patented fold-over clasp. It’s limited to 2,000 pieces.
Nautilus Ref. 5810G-010
Price: 60,000 CHF
Diameter: 41mm
Movement: Patek Philippe cal. 240 automatic
Dial: Horizontally embossed sunburst blue dial
Water Resistance: 30m
Crystal: Sapphire
A sportier take on the anniversary trio is the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5810G-001, which swaps the classic integrated bracelet for a navy composite strap while retaining the same ultra-thin architecture found across the 50th-anniversary models. The watch is housed in a 41mm white-gold case measuring just 6.9mm thick, a profile made possible by the extra-flat automatic caliber 240, whose off-center 22K gold micro-rotor — like those of its sister references — is engraved with the commemorative inscription “50 1976–2026.”
Visually, the piece leans into a slightly more contemporary aesthetic. Its sunburst blue dial with horizontal embossing remains unmistakably Nautilus, but here it’s elevated with baguette-cut diamond hour markers set in white gold, adding a subtle flash that contrasts with the otherwise minimalist two-hand display. The navy composite strap — finished with a fabric-pattern texture and secured by a white-gold fold-over clasp — gives it a relaxed, modern feel while preserving the elegant proportions that have defined the Nautilus family since 1976. It’s produced in a limited edition of 1,000 pieces.
Rounding out the anniversary lineup is an unexpected companion piece: the Nautilus Desk Clock Ref. 958G-001, a sculptural interpretation of the iconic sports watch translated into a white-gold desk clock. Conceived as a tribute to the bold spirit of Patek’s signature luxury sports watch, the clock echoes the watch’s defining features — from its softened octagonal bezel to the horizontally embossed dial pattern that has become a Nautilus signature.
But this isn’t merely a decorative object. The desk clock is powered by a newly developed eight-day manually wound movement, giving it serious horological credentials alongside its architectural presence. The case continues the Nautilus tradition of alternating satin-brushed and polished finishes, emphasizing the design’s distinctive geometry and its historic inspiration in the porthole construction of ocean liners. The result is both playful and reverent: a desk-bound reinterpretation of one of watchmaking’s most disruptive designs, scaled up to celebrate the Nautilus’ half-century legacy in a format few collectors would have expected.
Taken together, the three watches (and one clock) underscore why the Nautilus remains one of the most enduring luxury sports watches ever produced. Fifty years after its debut, the design still feels remarkably modern — proof that Genta’s porthole-inspired concept was never just a fluke, but rather, a true icon.
Calatrava Alarm Ref. 5322G
Price: 225,000 CHF
Diameter: 41mm
Movement: Patek Philippe cal. AL 30-660 S C automatic
Dial: Lacquered textured dial (blue or green) with black-gradient rim
Water Resistance: 30m
Crystal: Sapphire
With the Calatrava Alarm ref. 5322G, Patek brings the alarm complication back into focus with a thoroughly modern take on the classic Calatrava. Housed in a 41mm white-gold case with the brand’s signature Clous de Paris hobnail guilloché running around the caseband, it blends traditional finishing with a contemporary dial design. The lacquered dial — offered in either blue or green — features a textured surface, black-gradient edge, luminous Arabic numerals, and syringe-style hands for strong legibility.
The alarm function occupies the upper half of the dial, with a digital-style display showing the programmed alarm time in 15-minute increments, along with a bell-shaped aperture indicating whether the alarm is active and a day/night indicator for the 24-hour setting. Powering the watch is the new automatic caliber AL 30-660 S C, a 524-part movement whose hammer strikes an acoustic membrane. (With respect to sophistication and finishing, this piece is much more akin to a classic chiming watch than a traditional — and comparatively simple — alarm watch.)
Celestial Sunrise and Sunset Ref. 6105G
Price: 350,000 CHF
Diameter: 47mm
Movement: Patek Philippe caliber 240 C LU CL LCSO automatic
Dial: Multi-layer sapphire and mineral crystal celestial display with sky chart, moon phases, sunrise/sunset scales, and peripheral date
Water Resistance: 30m
Crystal: Sapphire
With the Celestial Ref. 6105G-001, Patek pushes its long tradition of astronomical complications even further. Based on the Celestial platform first introduced in the early 2000s, this new version debuts an entirely new complication: the display of sunrise and sunset times, appearing for the first time in a serially produced Patek Philippe wristwatch.
The dial presents a dynamic map of the night sky as seen from Geneva’s latitude, using three rotating sapphire and mineral crystal discs to track the motion of the stars, the angular position of the moon, and the lunar phases in real time. Surrounding the celestial display is a peripheral date scale, while two additional hands indicate the daily times of sunrise and sunset, information calculated via a complex system of cams reproducing the Earth’s annual tilt.
Powering the watch is the new caliber 240 C LU CL LCSO, which adds 121 components and six patents to accommodate the new astronomical indications while retaining the slim architecture of the famed micro-rotor movement. The result is a bold 47mm white-gold grand complication that quite literally puts the heavens on your wrist.
Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5840P
Price: 150,000 CHF
Diameter: 45mm
Movement: Patek Philippe cal. 240 Q automatic
Dial: Horizontally embossed sunburst blue dial with perpetual calendar displays and moonphase
Water Resistance: 30m
Crystal: Sapphire
The Cubitus Perpetual Calendar ref. 5840P-001 expands Patek Philippe’s newest collection with a decidedly high-complication twist. Introduced only recently, the square-cased Cubitus line was initially positioned as a modern, sporty alternative within the brand’s catalog. With the arrival of this perpetual calendar reference, however, the collection steps firmly into grand complication territory.
The watch pairs the Cubitus’ distinctive 45mm platinum square case with a refined dial layout that displays a full perpetual calendar: day, date, month, leap-year cycle, and moonphase. Despite the density of information, the display remains balanced thanks to carefully proportioned subdials and a horizontally embossed blue sunburst main dial that echoes the texture of Patek’s sport watches.
Inside beats the ultra-thin caliber 240 Q, the same micro-rotor movement that has powered many of Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendars over the decades. Its slim architecture helps keep the case elegant on the wrist, underscoring the Cubitus collection’s blend of bold geometry and traditional haute horlogerie.
“The Crow and the Fox” Automaton Ref. 5249R
Price: 320,000 CHF
Diameter: 43mm
Movement: Patek Philippe Caliber 31-260 PS HMD AU automatic
Dial: Hand-engraved gold dial with multi-colored gold appliques depicting “The Crow and the Fox,” Matara brown opaline finish
Water Resistance: 30m
Crystal: Sapphire (with hinged officer-style dust cover)
Among the most poetic pieces unveiled by Patek Philippe this year is the Patek Philippe Ref. 5249R-001 “The Crow and the Fox”, the maison’s first automaton wristwatch in its modern history. Inspired by a remarkable 1958 pocket watch now housed in the Patek Philippe Museum, the piece transforms Jean de La Fontaine’s famous fable into a miniature mechanical theater on the wrist.
At the press of a pusher at two o’clock, the scene animates: the fox indicates the hours with its paw and muzzle along a retrograde scale, while the crow drops a wedge of cheese — serving as the minute hand — along a graduated arc. Releasing the pusher sends both displays snapping back to their resting positions.
The richly engraved dial, crafted from gold with multiple hand-finished appliques, requires roughly 150 hours of artisanal work. Beneath it beats the newly developed caliber 31-260 PS HMD AU, combining an ultra-thin micro-rotor base movement with a complex on-demand retrograde display mechanism. The result is a rare union of haute horlogerie and decorative arts.
Find out more about these new releases from Patek-Philippe here.