Collectors have been asking for Breguet to fill a hole in their Pilot collection for a few years: offer a smaller Type XX for those with slimmer wrists (and just those who prefer smaller watches). Breguet listened. And it turns out, they already had the answer sitting in their archives.

The new Type XX Chronographe 2075 is based on a rarely seen civilian model from 1955 that checked all the boxes, 38mm, no date, two registers, perfectly proportioned. Breguet brought it back. And they didn’t just do it once. They did it twice.

There’s the black dial version, which stays incredibly close to the original. And there’s a limited edition silver dial model that takes the same foundation but gives it a more refined, dress-forward character. One is a callback. The other is a confident variation. Both feel like Breguet at its best.

Both versions share the same 38.3mm case, the same flyback chronograph foundation, and the same careful attention to detail. But they offer two different personalities. Breguet didn’t just do a simple dial swap. They made two fully realized versions of the same idea, both of which speak to different sides of the brand’s legacy.

At 38.3mm wide and just over 13mm thick, the Type XX 2075 wears beautifully. It’s compact, balanced, and faithful to the size of the original reference that inspired it. That original 1955 gold-cased civilian chronograph, the Type XX ref. 1780, is the direct ancestor of the new black dial version. The case shape, the absence of a date, the two-register layout, even the overall silhouette, it’s all here, recreated with almost eerie precision. And yet, the watch doesn’t feel like a museum piece. It feels like something that belongs on the wrist today.

Breguet’s case material also deserves mention. Both watches are made from what the brand calls Breguet Gold, a proprietary alloy that mixes gold with silver, copper, and palladium. The tone sits somewhere between yellow and rose gold, warm but never brash. It has a quiet richness that suits the design perfectly. The midcase is satin brushed, while the lugs and bezel edges are polished for contrast. The result is a case that feels thoughtful and finished without calling too much attention to itself.

The bi-directional bezel features a 12-hour scale and a knurled edge for grip. It turns smoothly, and on the black dial version, the numerals are filled in black enamel to blend in subtly with the rest of the watch. The crown is oversized and signed with a sharp Breguet B. The pushers are straight and functional, in keeping with the military roots of the Type XX.

The black dial model is the closest in spirit and appearance to the original. It uses an anodized aluminum dial, which references the brand’s deep connection to aviation. Louis Breguet, a descendant of the brand’s founder and a pioneer in aircraft manufacturing, was one of the first to use aluminum alloys in early aviation. A small “Al” printed between 7 and 8 o’clock acknowledges that link.

The anodization gives the dial a deep black tone with a soft sheen and excellent resistance to corrosion. The Arabic numerals and minute track are printed in beige Super-LumiNova that glows green in the dark. The layout is clean and functional: a large 15-minute “big eye” counter at 3 o’clock and a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. There’s no date window, and that decision changes everything. It allows the dial to breathe and brings a sense of clarity and balance that has been missing from recent Type XX iterations.

The hands are made from Breguet Gold and filled with matching lume. The chronograph seconds hand has a luminous tip and moves with a smoothness that comes from the high-beat movement underneath.

Now, about that silver dial. It would be a mistake to see it as simply a dressier take on the black dial. This version, limited to 250 numbered pieces, makes a strong statement of its own. While it shares the same dimensions and movement base, it has a noticeably different personality.

The vertically brushed silver dial feels crisp and open, catching light in a way that brings out the fine details. Instead of printed numerals, this model uses applied gold Arabic markers, adding depth and a more refined feel. Around the edge of the dial, a tachymeter scale is added in addition to a 60-minute track, offering another nod to vintage chronographs while maintaining a clean design.

The subdials are also different. Rather than the 15-minute counter used on the black dial, the silver model uses a traditional 30-minute register at 3 o’clock. The subdial hands are made from blued steel, a classic Breguet touch that contrasts beautifully against the silver background. The result is a watch that can easily be worn in formal settings without sacrificing its utility or legibility.

Inside both versions is a manually wound flyback chronograph movement based on Breguet’s high-frequency 728 calibre, introduced in 2023. The black dial model uses the calibre 7279, which drives a 15-minute “big eye” counter at 3 o’clock. The silver dial model uses a related but different calibre, the 7278, which supports a more traditional 30-minute chronograph register. While both movements share the same base architecture, including the 5 Hz beat rate and 60-hour power reserve, the chronograph modules are tailored specifically to each dial layout. The flyback function works the same on both: a single press of the pusher at 4 o’clock resets and restarts the chronograph immediately, true to the spirit of the original Type XX.

Flip the watch over and you’re treated to one of the most subtle and meaningful tributes Breguet has ever engraved. Through the sapphire caseback, the bridge is engraved with a map and illustration commemorating the 1930 transatlantic flight by Costes and Bellonte in a Breguet 19 aircraft. It shows the route from Paris to New York along with the plane itself. It’s tasteful, finely rendered, and connects the Type XX back to its roots in aviation.

Strap-wise, both versions come on calfskin leather with a soft lining and gentle padding. The black dial version comes on a brown leather strap, while the silver dial has a nice blue color that gradients out darker on the edges. The strap features a quick-release system and attaches to a matching gold pin buckle, which also has a quick-release feature of its own. It’s a minor thing, but a useful one for those who like to rotate straps regularly.

Breguet ships both models in red leather presentation boxes modeled after those used in the mid-20th century. Each box is individually numbered to match the serial number of the watch inside. It’s a small but thoughtful touch, reinforcing the idea that this release is rooted in tradition, not just design.

Pricing feels fair for what these watches are. The black dial model comes in at CHF 36,500. The silver dial, as a limited edition with more intricate dial finishing and applied markers, is priced slightly higher at CHF 38,000. Given the level of execution and historical importance, neither feels out of step with the rest of the market for gold chronographs at this level.

Taken together, the Type XX Chronographe 2075 models mark an important moment for Breguet. This is not just a return to form, it’s a sign of restraint, confidence, and historical awareness. The black dial version gives collectors exactly what they’ve been asking for: a smaller, clean, no-date chronograph that honors the original Type XX almost line for line. And the silver dial shows that Breguet is willing to explore that same language in a more refined, less expected direction.

If you’ve been waiting for a Type XX that brings the proportions and priorities back to where they belong, this is it. And if you want something with the same DNA but a little more polish, a little more formal range, the silver dial version might be the sleeper hit of the year.

Either way, the message is clear. Breguet still knows exactly what it’s doing. Learn more about the Breguet Type XX 2075 here.